How to remove a Datatool System 3 from a Honda CBR600FX

Way back when, I thought an alarm on my motorbike was a good idea. My bike had just been vandalised by a drunk and I had become a bit paranoid. And, in fairness, since having it, my bike was never stolen. Admittedly, I’m not certain there were actually any attempts to steal it. The times that the alarm did get triggered was always me, or an ant looking at it and setting off the motion detector, and even on those occasions, any passers-by in the vicinity barely gave it a glance before moving on and ignoring the apparent attempted theft of my bike. Had I been trying to steal my bike, then I doubt the alarm would have done much to prevent it. Seems to me that alarms are pretty ineffective nowadays. Moreover, I can think of at least one easy way to completely disable it with very little fuss.

So when I recently had to replace my battery again due to its inability to maintain a charge – no doubt caused by the permanent drain that the alarm system puts on it – enough was enough, the thing was coming out. It was surprisingly easy to do, which made me wonder about its status as Thatcham approved and all that. It took the installer quite a few hours to put in – he did do a proper job – but I’d say it took me around 20 minutes to get it out. Not something you’d do on the side of a road in order to nick it, but still, surprisingly easy. And to think I paid around £400 at the time.

This isn’t supposed to be step by step instructions and I won’t describe how to dismantle your bike or get at the particular pieces – if you can’t work out that much on your own, you probably shouldn’t be doing this. And needless to say, but it needs to be said, this is what I had to do to my own CBR600… no guarantees it’ll work for your bike or be the same or anything. And I’m by no means an electrician. So if you permanently immobilise your bike – it ain’t my fault! And note that my alarm was functional but I had taken a rather unconventional route to completely disable the bike before I did this (took out the main fuse for the bike) – so the alarm actually wasn’t alive.

You’ll need: stanley knife, screwdrivers, soldering iron, solder, electrical tape, optionally heat shrink/heatgun

  • If your alarm is still functional, put it in service mode (ignition on, press and hold small button for 2 seconds, ignition off). (Or do as I did and cripple the bike’s electrical system completely.)
  • Disconnect the negative terminal of the battery.
  • Take off the rear seat cowling
  • You should see the main siren unit cable tied to the subframe
  • Pull out the rear LED from the light unit
  • Pull out the blanked indicator wires that don’t appear to do anything
  • You should be able to follow the unit’s main wiring loom in to the bike’s wiring loom. It’ll probably be taped up to hell.
  • Remove as much tape as you need to expose the whole of the alarm’s wiring loom
  • You should see two obvious halves of wiring, and about 10 thin black wires in total
  • Most of these are just “drop-ins” – that is, they just join the existing wire so the alarm can trigger the e.g., indicators – the join should be covered in electrical tape, and the wire it is connecting to should be in tact
  • Two of the wires will be set differently (one in each half of the loom) – ignition and power – the original wire will have been cut and then soldered on to thin black wires, and the other half of the original wire will also be soldered, the join is probably covered in heat shrink
  • For each of the “drop-ins”, snip the black wire out of the join, and then wrap the join with electrical tape – be careful that you just snip the black wire – not the original wire!
  • For the other two wires, you’ll need to rejoin them – they should be coloured in such a way so as to be obvious which one needs to be soldered where
  • Locate the two ends of the original wire(s), and work out how you’ll rejoin them. I left the soldered join in place, and cut the black wire so that it would be long enough to rejoin to the original wire
  • When you’ve cut the wires out, you can remove the whole alarm unit
  • Then solder the original wires back together. Cover the join in heat shrink or electrical tape.

At this point, the job is done – and you can reattach the battery and test to see if all is good. If it is – cover the various wiring looms in electrical tape until they’re well insulated then replace all the removed bits. If it’s not, well, it’s time to worry.

That’s all there is to it – frighteningly simple.

Now to try and flog the unit on eBay.

Update 01/09/2011

I found this information about the System 3. It might be helpful in some way, if you’re trying to install the system (quite why you’d want to do this is beyond me…): Datatool System 3 installation guide (9841)

Update 29/08/2010

If you can’t sell it, you may consider this form of “maintenance”!


  1. Thanks for the instructions, all went well. Chopped out the alarm, and everything working fine.

  2. Hi Matt,
    I couldnt wait for Saturday so I took it out today – what a joy to hear the bike start and no flashing or sirens whining – when it as still installed I used to leave it running at petrol stations and use the spare key for the tank rather risk the alarm going off, instructions were excellent – it took me 26 minutes, a few connectors and a coil of insulation tape – would have cost me at least 150 / 200 from my local dealer – thanks again – brian

  3. I’m glad I’m not the only one – surgery for the removal will start on Saturday- and the sledge hammer will come in very handy.
    Thanks for the help,

  4. thanks, i already found that one.
    i am trying to sort it out, have the alarm on my lap right now. all wires are cut, so no way to trace them back. i found 12 volt (it has a big fuse on it), and found 2 pairs of wires that show continuity. the 2 ground wires will show continuity, so one of these pairs is ground.
    i am not sure if the two starter relay and two engine immobilizer wires would also show continuity IF the unit is OFF. perhaps it needs to be armed and disarmed for continuity.

    some wires – 3 – are cut near each other, that will be the two indicator lights and …?

    so the tracing continues…

    i too have some mixed feelings about alarms, but here in the netherlands they almost steal your bike from you when you are still on it… so i don’t expect much of any alarm, but only to scare off some thieves (the dumbasses that mess with your bike and are not able to steal it and leave a wrecked bike…). i already have one s3 on my other bike, no problems there. has been working fine for the last 7 years (except the battery drainage problem, empty battery in about 3-4 weeks).

    btw. got it for free from the seller when i bought his 2 fobs (for the other s3 alarm on my bike), he donated the alarm…

  5. Dennis. I found a guide about it, and added it to the post. But quite why you’d want to INSTALL the Datatool is beyond me… it’s a piece of shit that should be destroyed.

  6. does anyone has the pinout of the datatool system 3? im trying to install a second hand, but it isn’t labelled. only black wires (17 i believe). does anyone have the pinout of these wires so i know which one is/does one.

  7. great at last i have no more datatool s4 alarm what a pain in the arse it was weeks of alarm goin off when riding or goin off in middle of night.took ten minutes to remove was goin to go to a datatool dealer you saved me cash thanks a lot

  8. Wow.Fantastic set of instructions and so much easier than I was led to believe by others.Alarm now removed from wifes 600 hornet.Cheers matt.

  9. thanks lads,i e-mailed datatool this morning and they sent me a phone number of the technical supervisor so ill ring him tomorrow.i will never put an alarm on a bike again after this,ill let you know how i get on.steve about the fitter im in republic of ireland bro in law got clutch done on fjr1300 yesterday cost 545euro,shops here rob people more than bike theves do

  10. Kevin, this was also the problem mine had on my Blade. The fuel pump would not prime when the ignition was turned on. Do as I did, look on the datatool website, find a local approved fitter and get them to take it out properly. Cost me £72, but no hassles.

  11. Hi Kevin

    Can’t say for certain… could be a bunch of things. Obviously the pump itself is OK… first guess is… does the Busa have a separate immobiliser that’s maybe been shafted by this?

  12. hi matt,i have a 03 hayabusa with datatool system 3,i am thinking of burning this bike cause it has me wreaked i cut out the alarm but didnt know it was spiked first and now the fuel pump wont prime it will pump if you direct feed the power,if you can help ill be always grateful

  13. Hi matt and other readers,
    I eventually got my system removed by a local garage, but they are recognised Datatool fitters. The main reason being that big chunks of wires were removed to make re-assembly almost impossible unless you have the datatool wiring diagrams. Cost me £72 including bike pick up from my house. Shop around for prices, it varies a lot.
    Thanks for the info here guys,

  14. Just wanted to say a big thank you for writing this!! my zx6r has had problems with the datatool alarm for the past 3 years, soon as it arms the alarm the siren would start!! so would always have to put it in service mode when i leave it etc…
    Have always wanted to remove it for this problem and the fact that it eats batteries! got a few quotes to remove it and every garage quoted ridiculous prices!, searched google and found your blog, 20mins later alarm removed and bike all working as normal!! Really cant believe how easy it was and will never buy another again!

    massive thanks!

  15. GSXR 600 SRAD Datatool System 3 Removal
    I would disarm my alarm then turn on the ignition only to have the bike not start and the alarm go off after 30 seconds. The alarm wasnt registering that the key was in the ignition even though all electrics were working fine. I could bump start my bike but then the alarm would go off whilst im riding it making it look like I have stolen the bike (unless I disarm the alarm every 30 seconds). After looking on the internet I find out that the alarm is broken and easily removed it with this guide.

    To sum up this guide: Follow the loom until you get to several black wires – reconnect the colour coded wires and remove all black wires – Thanks for your help!

  16. Thanks for the reply Matt. Yes, 4 different colours, I have read that the installers sometimes cut the wires out so it is more difficult to replace the unit!!! Looks like I’ll be doing a bit more revealing.
    I’ll let you know what happens.


  17. Hi Steve. Can’t say for sure but it means either

    a) you need to expose more the loom to get at the wires, they’ll be there somewhere OR
    b) more likely, the 4 wires you’re talking about are actually two – and you need to join them. If they’re completely different colours, then you’re gonna need some help… like a Hayne’s manual or a bit of Googleage for the wiring diagram

  18. Hi Matt,

    I want to remove the system from my Blade (1000rr5) but I have 4 wires (soldered to black wires that go to the datatool box) and into the loom that (4 different colours from bike loom) did you have these, as I see no wires to re-join them too. Help!!


  19. just like to say thank you very much been of the road five weeks with broken alarm unable to start bike followed your instructions and my bmw r1150r came back to life thanks again thought it was going to cost an arm and a leg all it took was your help and three hours carefull work
    a very happy Garry

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